Bargain Dining Special Issue

Hmm. A narrow storefront with barstool-style chairs at high bare tables. Bar seating near an open kitchen. I thought I had walked into a pub until the small menu set me straight. It begins with smoky grilled calamari in a lemon herb vinaigrette ($5) and baked goat cheese with tomato-basil sauce and garlic toast ($6). Conchiglie shells with Italian sausage and red bell peppers in marinara topped with melting ricotta ($9) are every bit as savory as the penne with porcini, portobello, and white mushrooms in Marsala sauce ($9). Moist espresso cake ($4) is the perfect nightcap: coffee and cake rolled into one.

–Dennis Ray Wheaton

Cheap Eats – 4 forks

Diner al’Italiana – Pasta Palazzo calls itself a “gourmet pasta diner,” three words rarely strung together on a menu. But it fits here.

The designer-diner approach can be found in the ambience too. The requisite open kitchen is set against a wall that’s ablaze with bright-colored tiles forming a jazzy mosaic. High-backed wooden barstools of various colors adorn tall tables. Pasta Palazzo stays loyal to the diner ethic by making soloists comfortable with ample seating along a counter that runs nearly the length of the room.

The food underscores the idea here with a menu that lists a page full of Italian fare, each followed by prices usually seen following “BLT Club” and “Diet Plate.” Nothing exceeds $10.

Fresh crusty Italian bread arrived shortly after we sat down (and was efficiently replenished later in the meal). We chose Grilled Calamari ($5) for an appetizer, which was substantial enough to share. Generous pieces of tender fresh squid, grilled in lemon, garlic and herbs present a fresh take on the more familiar breaded and fried version.

The mixed green salad ($6 large, $4 small) delivers an abundance of colorful lettuces – and we ordered the smaller version. The Italian dressing, easy on the salt and a perfect pairing of olive oil and balsamic vinegar renders a refreshing light accent.

Farfalle Pomodoro Formaggio starts with bow tie pasta cooked perfectly al dente. Among the flavors heaped onto this foundation: crunchy pine nuts, creamy and mellow goat cheese, plenty of basil and fresh tomatoes.

Will there be room for dessert? Yes, if you take half your entrée home. The flourless chocolate cake is worth the sacrifice. The rich, dense flavor of chocolate dusted by confectioners sugar can’t be beat. Tiramisu and cheesecake are also offered.

Wines by the glass and bottle are offered, as are several bottled beers and soft drinks.

The staff is friendly and efficient which adds to the comfort level. All of the items are available for take-out, which may be a wiser option when the spot gets crowded.

 

Bright decor, a lively atmosphere, and quick and tasty food at reasonable prices make this friendly Lincoln Park eatery very popular. Neighborhood residents go regularly, and one Rater thinks it's great for a "cheap date." The menu sticks to simple pasta dishes while offering enough variety to satisfy a range of tastes. It's certainly bargain dining -- most entrees are under $10.

-Laura Levy Shatkin

 

The bright colors in this Italian eatery in Lincoln Park might put anyone in a good mood. The walls are covered in a vibrant mosaic of hues and the bar stools at each of the polished wood tables is a different dark, rich color. They don't accept reservations and it's often busy here, but if you do happen to get your choice of tables, you may want to sit at the four-tops in the window where you can watch the shoppers strolling by on Halsted. In this colorful palace, pasta is King. You can select from as many as 12 familiar pasta platters such as farfalle alfredo, linguine pesto-cream or penne Bolognese. Or, sample some of the hand-made pastas including gnocchi or ravioli. There are also healthy pastas that are prepared without oil, butter or cheese. A panini sandwich with salad is also a lighter option. Keep in mind it's cash only here.

-Jenn Q. Goddu